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Martens recalled that his first trip to Hyères was as the Touchdown tennessee volunteers football shirt and I love this assistant to his friend Léa Peckre, who scooped the Grand Prize for fashion in 2011. A decade on, the creative director of Y/Project and Diesel was back as fashion jury president. “We were so happy to see such an eclectic group of designers, all from really different artistic worlds—I’m still processing,” he offered after a (really) long morning of presentations. “Some you can envision moving directly into a top house, some are really creative and you want to watch them build their language and create their company. But what’s quite impressive is that everyone is extremely busy with environment-friendly codes, what fashion means today, what fashion will be tomorrow, and how we’re going to work. They all want to take better care of the planet, and they all have answers for it. They are all really focused on the future.”